Spotlight: Escalante - Golden Cathedral & Zebra Slot Canyon

Spotlight: Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument would probably be a national park in any other state. However, because Utah already has 5 of the most popular national parks in the nation, it was designated a monument in 1996, covering an area of 1.9 million acres (more than twice the size of the 5 national parks combined!) The monument comprises 3 significant landforms: the Grand Staircase, the Kaiparowits Plateau, and the Escalante Canyons. Because of its size, and remoteness, visitors need to be prepared, since the monument doesn't provide many of the amenities found in most national parks. By the same token, the monument also has much fewer visitors than Utah's Big 5 national parks. So if you're looking for a bit of solitude among the wonders of nature, Grand Staircase-Escalante might be the perfect choice.

Activities: On my latest trip to Escalante, we decided to hike to the Golden Cathedral. This is labeled a "moderate" hike that is 7.8 miles long, and should take between 5-8 hours if you take the direct route. The "Fence Canyon Approach" is 9.1 miles. The Golden Cathedral is a stunning red rock cavern with three natural sky lights above a small pool that create a golden glow inside the cavern. To reach this natural amphitheater, you have to take the unpaved Hole-in-the-Rock Road until you reach the Egypt turnoff (after about 16 miles). This is where the road starts to get really rough. You will need a 4-wheel drive high-clearance vehicle to make it all the way to the trailhead. Hikers start at the Egypt trailhead, descend into Neon Canyon down a steep, unmaintained trail across the rugged desert landscape to the Escalante River. After following the river a bit, they hike up to the cavern at the end of the canyon. The trail is not very well marked (we lost the trail at least twice looking for the next cairn, so we had to pull up a GPS line to follow on a phone), and requires hiking across unshaded sections with some deep sand, as well as some wading across the river, so be prepared with plenty of water, the proper footgear, sunscreen, bug spray, a GPS map and a camera for the stunning pictures. This hike can be done as a day hike, or as an overnight backpacking adventure. (For more detailed instructions, go to: https://www.roadtripryan.com/go/t/utah/escalante/the-golden-cathedral). 

The trail (near the river bottoms)

Fording the Escalante River

Approaching the Cathedral

The Golden Cathedral

Natural "Skylights"

Location: The trailhead is located 28.2 miles SE of the town of Escalante. It will take almost an hour to drive from Escalante to the trailhead.

Hours: open all year long (24/7) as long as the road isn't washed out

Cost: There is no entrance fee

Rating: 4 stars

Activities: Zebra Slot Canyon is probably my favorite slot canyon in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument - and honestly, that's saying something. This is a moderately difficult hike that is 5.2 miles round-trip, and should take between 3-4 hours. Although the hike to the slot canyon is easy, making your way through the canyon is challenging since it requires some maneuvering to get through the tightest spots. To reach Zebra Slot Canyon, you have to take the unpaved Hole-in-the-Rock Road for 7.8 miles. This section of the road is the best maintained, and can be done in a sedan, but a 4x4 SUV is preferable. The parking area is just past the third cattleguard (on the right-hand side of the road). The trailhead is directly across from the parking area on the other side of the road. Although the trail is well-marked at the beginning, it is easy to get lost since you have to go through a gate that appears to block the trail. Also, it is easy to get offtrack by following one of the many false trails that others have created, and continue to get more worn as others fall into the same trap. A very good step-by-step guide to follow can be found at this site: https://www.earthtrekkers.com/hike-zebra-slot-canyon-grand-staircase-escalante/. Most of the hike is unshaded, and can get hot, so be prepared with plenty of water, the proper footgear, sunscreen, bug spray, explicit instructions, and a camera for the stunning pictures. 

Just push on the gate and it will open

The hike to Zebra Slot Canyon

Slick rock section of the trail

 

It is easy to get lost at this point

   Once you find the right canyon, you need to be prepared from some canyoneering, so make sure that you have a good pair of shoes with good treads. You will also likely have to traverse standing water in the canyon that can be anywhere from ankle deep to chest deep, so you may want to carry along a set of water socks so that you don't get your shoes wet. Although some hikers prefer to hike the canyon barefoot, I would not recommend this. There will be sections of the canyon in which you need to plant your feet on one wall, while you support yourself against the other wall with your backside and slide along, so don't wear your Gucci clothing. Also, please do not try to navigate the canyon while it is raining, or within an hour or two of a rainstorm, since slot canyons are notoriously susceptible to flash floods. 

Be prepared for a tight fit

Have the proper footwear

Climbing the Slot Canyon

Zebra Stripes

Location: The trailhead is located 13 miles SE of the town of Escalante. It will take about 22 minutes to drive from Escalante to the trailhead.

Hours: open all year long (24/7) as long as the road isn't washed out

Cost: There is no entrance fee

Rating: 5 stars

Activities: Devils Garden is a playground of hoodoos and rock spires with lots of nooks and crannies to explore. As opposed to some of the other hikes in the area, the short loop trail (0.7 miles) is rated as "easy." The amount of time you spend is variable, but you can see almost everything in less than an hour. To reach Devils Garden, you have to take the unpaved Hole-in-the-Rock Road for 12.3 miles to the spur road labeled as "Devils Garden." You will take this spur road for a quarter mile to the large parking area next to the picnic area. This section of the road is well-maintained, and can be done in a sedan, but a 4x4 SUV is preferable. Devils garden is less primitive than most of the other attractions in Grand-Staircase. It hosts several picnic tables, toilets, fire pits, and elevated grills. However, bring your own firewood or charcoal since collecting firewood is prohibited in the monument.

Rock spires at Devils Garden

Mano Arch

"The Three Patriarchs"

Devils Garden Mushroom rocks

Location: The trailhead is located 17.5 miles SE of the town of Escalante. It will take about 30 minutes to drive from Escalante to the trailhead.

Hours: open all year long (24/7) as long as the road isn't washed out

Cost: There is no entrance fee

Rating: 4 stars

Activities: Cottonwood Canyon Road gives you access to the more remote sections of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. You can pick up the road at Cannonville, and head southeast for 7.2 miles to Kodachrome Basin State Park. If you continue along Cottonwood Canyon Rd. for another 10.7 miles, you will reach Grosvenor Arch. This double sandstone arch stands 150 feet tall, and is easily accessible from the parking lot. It was named for Gilbert Hovey Grosvenor, a former president of the National Geographic Society.

Grosvenor Arch

    As you continue along the dirt road, you will reach Cottonwood Narrows (20 miles southeast of Cannonville). This section of the road is known as "Candyland" for the vibrant colors of the rock formations on either side. The Narrows are impressive, but the amazing thing is that we had the entire slot canyon to ourselves! The 3-mile hike is an easy-moderate jaunt through the wash that meanders through the deep slot canyon. The best time to hike the Narrows is in spring and autumn, when the temperatures are mild. However, do not hike this canyon after a rainstorm since it is susceptible to flashfloods.

Candyland - The trailhead for the Cottonwood Narrows

Entering the Cottonwood Narrows

Cottonwood Narrows

Location: The trailhead is located 20.2 miles SE of the town of Cannonville. It will take about 45 minutes to drive from Cannonville to the trailhead.

Hours: open all year long (24/7) as long as the road isn't washed out

Cost: There is no entrance fee

Rating: 4 stars

Things You Should Know: 

- The Hole-in-the-Rock Road goes from Escalante to the Hole-in-the-Rock Trailhead just north of Lake Powell, a distance of about 62 miles. The road follows a historic pioneer trail from 1879. The road is rugged, and isn't passable after heavy rains. Even in good weather, it is recommended that you use a 4-wheel drive, high-clearance vehicle. Some of the highlights along the road are: Devil's Garden, Peek-a-Boo and Spooky Gulch slot canyons, Dance Hall Rock, Twenty Mile Wash Dinosaur Track site, Coyote Gulch, Calf Creek Falls, Zebra Slot Canyon and Golden Cathedral. Once you leave Escalante, there are no services of any kind (gas, food, etc.) along the entirety of the road.

- You can bring dogs to the monument, but they must be kept on a leash.

- When bringing children into Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, it is important to teach them the importance of staying on the trail to avoid damaging the fragile desert vegetation.

Nearby:  - Escalante Petrified Forest (2.3 miles northwest of Escalante) is a state park with two major trails, which are pocked with mineral deposits of petrified wood.

- Hell's Backbone Grill & Farm is located just south of Boulder (27 miles northeast of Escalante). This grill is famous for healthy, pricy, delicious natural cuisine. This style of restaurant seems a bit out of place in this rural, Utah setting, but they make it work.

My delicious meal

- Kodachrome Basin State Park (41 miles southwest of Escalante) is known for its 67 monolithic stone spires with gorgeous hues. 

- Lake Powell is only 72 miles south of Escalante via the Hole-in-the-Rock Road, but less than 1% of visitors to the lake would approach by that route. The main access to the lake is a 190-mile loop following HWY 12 west of Escalante, then south-east along HWY 89 to Page, Arizona.

- Capitol Reef National Park (67 miles north of Escalante) is the least visited of Utah's Big 5 National Parks. However, it is probably one of the Top 25 national parks in the United States. It features several natural formations, cool hikes, beautiful lookouts, and a small pioneer orchard and village with fresh baked fruit pies.

Spotlight: Twin Falls, ID

Spotlight: Although there is some evidence of prehistoric settlement in what is known today as Twin Falls, the first historical record of the area was the overland trek, led by Robert Stuart, from Astoria to St. Louis. His route formed the basis of what would become known as the Oregon Trail. The first permanent settlement in Twin Falls was a stagecoach stop at Rock Creek in 1864. In 1900, I.B. Perrine founded the Twin Falls Land and Water Company in order to build a canal system that would allow the surrounding land to become irrigated. The completion of the Milner Dam in 1905 provided the necessary technology to make this venture successful, opening up the Twin Falls area to settlement. Today, with more than 50,000 inhabitants, Twin Falls is the largest city in south-central Idaho.

     Located along the southern edge of the Snake River Gorge, Twin Falls is surrounded by natural beauty, including some of the most beautiful waterfalls in the country.

Activities: Shoshone Falls (often referred to as "the Niagara of the West") are one of the biggest waterfalls in the nation. Located along the Snake River, the falls measure 212 feet in height (45 ft. taller than Niagara) and flow over a rim nearly 1000 feet in width. As the historical upper limit of the fish migration, it became an important fishing location for native American tribes. After a stagecoach stop was established at nearby Rock Creek, it became an important tourist location in frontier Idaho. Today, the flow of water over the falls is seasonal since it is controlled by the Shoshone Falls Dam, based on snowfall, irrigation needs, and hydroelectric demand. The best time to view the falls is during the late spring and early summer when the flow can be as high as 20,000 cubic feet per second (second most in the nation), as compared to 300 cubic ft./s during the fall in dry years.

Shoshone Falls

A closer view of the falls above the Falls

A view of the dam and some minor falls above the Falls

A view of the Snake River from the Shoshone Falls lookout

Location: 3 miles northeast of Twin Falls

Hours: 7 am - 9 pm daily all year (may be closed due to poor road conditions)

Cost: Entrance to the Shoshone Falls parking area is only $5/vehicle

Rating: 5 stars

Activities: Perrine-Coulee Falls isn't as famous as Shoshone Falls, but is memorable in a different way. The nearly 200 ft. waterfall drops into the Snake River Valley near the Perrine Bridge. The waterfall can be reached by parking in one of the designated parking slots at the base of the first switchback along Canyon Springs Road. From there, a short (yet extremely uneven) path leads down to a bench that wends through a grotto behind the waterfall, allowing visitors to view the waterfall from almost any angle! If you continue along the path, you can find a small cave and another trail that heads up the cliff, offering great views of the valley and bridge.

The Trail behind Perrine-Coulee Falls

The backside of water

The Perrine Bridge and Snake River Valley

Roadside springs where you park for Perrine-Coulee Falls

Location: At the base of the first switchback along Canyon Springs Road in Twin Falls.

Hours: The waterfall can be accessed all year long, at any time of day (24/7/365). However, hikers should be extremely careful when visiting when the trail is snowy or muddy, since the uneven trail can be treacherous without solid footing.

Cost: free

Rating: 4 stars

Activities: Thousand Springs State Park is made up of six diverse park units in southern Idaho northwest of Twin Falls. The six units include: Malad Gorge - The Malad River flows down the gorge, creating a large waterfall just underneath a viewing bridge, on its way to the Snake River; Kelton Trail - wagon ruts can still be seen in the rocks showing where the wagon trains passed through on their way to Oregon Territory. The wagon ruts are not well marked. I'm still not sure if we found them; Billingsley Creek - the future home of the Thousand Springs State Park and the Hagerman Fossil Beds National Monument Visitors Center currently hosts day-use visitors who want to fish, hike, or ride horses; Ritter Island - pioneer homes and a dairy farm have been preserved from its frontier days. The island also provides access to some impressive waterfalls: Lemmon Falls and Minnie Miller Falls (which come right out of the cliffside after travelling for more almost 100 miles underground from the Craters of the Moon NM area); Earl M. Hardy Box Canyon Springs Preserve - the Box Canyon Springs flow at a rate of 180k gallons per minute. There is also a hiking trail and a 20-foot waterfall; Niagara Springs - to access the springs, you have to drive down a fairly steep dirt road into the 350-ft. deep Snake River Canyon. Crystal Lake provides year-round fishing. The springs aren't well marked, but there are a few different spots along the road that you can view them.

Waterfall below bridge (Malad Gorge)

Minnie Miller Falls (Ritter Island)

Lemmon Falls (Ritter Island)

Springs flowing into the lake (Niagara Springs)

Location: Each of the units has a separate address, but all are within an hour of each other. The Visitor Center is currently combined with the Hagerman Fossil Beds NM Visitor Center: 17970 US HWY 30.

Hours: The Visitor Center is open from 9 am to 3 pm daily except Tuesdays and Wednesdays; other sections of the park are open from 7:00 am to 10:00 pm daily.

Cost: $7.00 per vehicle

Rating: 4 stars

Things You Should Know: - The Perrine Bridge is a popular place to legally BASE jump.

- The state park rangers are very helpful. When we told one of them our itinerary, she recommended that we go to Ritter Island (which was the best unit in my opinion) instead of the Box Canyon Springs (since we didn't have time for both). She also told us of a nice little restaurant where we could stop for lunch (West Point Restaurant) since there aren't many restaurants in the area, as well as a nice place to stop for ice cream afterwards (Cloverleaf Creamery in Buhl). They were all great suggestions.

- There are a lot of empty spaces between cities in Idaho. Always make sure that you have plenty of gas before leaving town.

Nearby: 

- Lava Hot Springs (a little more than 2 hours east of Twin Falls) near Pocatello has several of outdoor recreation options including river rafting and of course the hot springs.

102 degree hot spring pool

- Craters of the Moon National Monument (about 100 minutes north-east of Twin Falls) is where some of the Apollo astronauts were trained at identifying prized rock samples in preparation for their lunar mission.

Craters of the Moon NM

- Shoshone Ice Caves (about 50 minutes north of Twin Falls) has a year-round ice cave. It is a tourist trap, but worth a stop if you're driving between Craters of the Moon and Twin Falls.

Ice sheet in the cave

- City of Rocks (about 1 1/2 hours south-east of Twin Falls) is a rock climbers paradise. Just be aware that the drive in and out is slow going over rough gravel roads. Also, make sure you have a full tank of gas before heading there.

Window Arch

On top of Bathtub Rock

Spotlight: Baton Rouge, LA

Spotlight: Baton Rouge, the capital of Louisiana, is the second most populous city in the state. Located on the eastern bank of the Mississippi, Baton Rouge was built on the first natural bluff upriver from the Mississippi Delta, thus avoiding many of the flooding issues that afflict New Orleans. The region was settled by immigrants from several European nations during the colonial era: the French, Spanish and British, before being purchased by the United States as part of the Louisiana Purchase. The city's unique name came from a French expedition in 1698. The explorers noted a red pole at the site, marking the boundary between the Houma and Bayagoula tribal hunting grounds, and named the area Baton Rouge: bâton (stick) and rouge (red). European settlement of the area began in 1721 when French colonists established a military fort and trading post there. Many of the Acadians (deported from Acadia by the British) took up residence in the area in 1755. In 1846, the state legislature designated Baton Rouge as the state capital in an effort to wrest control away from the "corrupt" influences of New Orleans, despite the fact that the population of New Orleans (102,000) was more than 40 times bigger than that of Baton Rouge (2,269). 

Activities: The Louisiana State Capitol in downtown Baton Rouge is 450 feet tall (34 stories) making it the tallest Capitol Building in the nation. The Capitol building was the pet project of governor Huey Long, who was elected governor as the populist candidate. Long wanted a new capitol building to symbolize the end of the political domination of Louisiana's traditional social and economic elite. The building was completed in 1931, at a cost of $5 million, and is located on a 27-acre tract of land that includes the beautiful Capitol Gardens. Long was so proud of the new Capitol, that he proclaimed that the only building that rivaled its architectural beauty was St. Peter's Cathedral in Rome, Italy. Only four years after it's completion, Long was assassinated in the Capitol building itself by Dr. Carl Weiss, whose apparent motivation was to keep his father-in-law (a judge) from being gerrymandered out of office by Long. Some of the stray bullet holes are still visible in columns outside the governor's office.

The New Capitol Building

The Capitol Gardens

     One of the most unique features of the Capitol building are the labeled stairs leading up to the entrance. Each of the 49 steps has the name of a state with its year of induction into the nation in chronological order, with the final step labeled for Alaska and Hawaii. The Observation Deck is located on the 27th floor, and can get quite windy even when there isn't much wind at ground level.

The 49 Steps of Statehood

A view of the Mississippi from the Observation Deck

Location: 900 North Third Street, Baton Rouge, LA 70802

Hours: 8-4:30 pm daily (except major holidays)

Cost: Free

Rating: 3.5 stars

Activities: The Old Louisiana State Capitol, also known as the State House, was built to look and function like a castle. When the state legislature decided to move the capital from New Orleans to Baton Rouge, the city donated a $20,000 tract of land, on a bluff overlooking the Mississippi River, for the construction of a capitol building. New York architect James H. Dakin was hired to design the building, and chose to model it after a Neo-Gothic medieval castle. During the Civil War, Union troops captured the city of Baton Rouge and used the Old Capitol as a prison, and later as a garrison. As a result the building was ravished by war and fire. By 1882, the Old Capitol Building was rebuilt, including the installation of a spiral staircase and stained glass dome. It served as the Capitol building for 50 more years, when it was replaced by the New Capitol Building. Since then, the Old Capitol has been converted into a museum and hosts a variety of functions.

Old Louisiana State Capitol

Stain Glass Dome

Statue of Jean Baptiste Le Moyne
de Bienville - Founder of New Orleans

Location: 100 North Blvd., Baton Rouge, LA 70801

Hours: Tues. - Fri. 10 am. - 4 pm., Sat. 9 am. - 3 pm.

Cost: Free

Rating: 3.5 stars

Activities: Brec's Bluebonnet Swamp Nature Center is located in a swamp inside the Baton Rouge city limits. The Nature Center is located within the Bluebonnet Swamp Conservation Area (103 acres) and works under the philosophy of "conservation, education, recreation and tourism." As part of this mission, it houses a variety of live animals found within the swamp, including baby alligators, to care for the animals and educate the public about their roles in the fragile ecosystem. The center also maintains more than a mile of gravel paths and boardwalks that allow visitors to wander safely through the different habitats and view the plants and animals living there. The animals that periodically live within the swamp include: snakes, turtles, raccoons, rabbits, opossums, armadillos, squirrels, foxes, coyotes, deer, otter and hundreds of species of birds.

Worker giving a presentation on alligators

Boardwalk path in the Bluebonnet Swamp

Wildlife siting

Location: 10503 N Oak Hills Pkwy, Baton Rouge, LA 70810

Hours: Tues. - Sat. 9 am. - 5 pm., Sun. noon - 5 pm.

Cost: $3/adult, $2/child

Rating: 3 stars

Things You Should Know:

- St. Joseph's Cathedral is located near the State Capitol building. It has some beautiful stain glass window displays that are worth a view if you have the time.

Stain glass windows in St. Joseph's Cathedral

- Down the hill from the Old State Capitol is the Irene W. Pennington Planetarium. We happened to be there while the museum area was displaying an Egyptian exhibit which we enjoyed immensely. We also saw a movie on Egypt in their 60-foot dome theater. I would have highlighted the Planetarium and Museum, but all the pictures I took were of the Egyptian exhibit which is only on display until Aug. 1, 2025. However, I would give the planetarium a 4 star rating.

Egyptian exhibit at the Pennington Planetarium

- Pets are not allowed in Brec's Bluebonnet Swamp except on designated days. To find out about those days, call: 225-757-8905

- Louisiana State University is also located in Baton Rouge. There is a live tiger exhibit on campus that is worth a peek if you are in the area; but if you go during the heat of the day, Mike the Tiger will probably be napping.

Mike the Tiger

Nearby: Tammany Trace Bike Path, New Orleans, Destrehan Plantation, Oak Alley Plantation, Laura Plantation