Travel tip #49 - Exchanging your dollars for foreign currency (Euros)

     If you are traveling to Europe, you are probably going to need Euros. Why probably? Well, many European countries still use their own form of currency. However, 19 of the 28 countries in the European Union use the Euro as their official currency, including most of the popular tourist destinations: Austria, Belgium, Cyprus, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, 
Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, the Netherlands, Portugal, Slovakia, Slovenia, and Spain. The EU countries which continue to use their own national currency are: Bulgaria, Croatia, Czech Republic, Denmark, Hungary, Poland, Romania, Sweden, and the United Kingdom. Of course, there are still other countries who don't even belong to the European Union, such as Norway and Switzerland, which also use their national currency.
      Although coin collectors may not appreciate the advantages of a single currency, it does make it easier for travelers. Rather than exchanging your currency every time you enter a new country, you can just continue using Euros. Now you might be thinking, "I've traveled to several countries and have been able to use the U.S. dollar wherever I've gone. If I need cash, I'm sure they'll take them in Europe too." Although there are places in Europe that will take dollars, most of them are professional currency exchange stations, and their primary goal is to make money. They make money by buying your dollars at one rate, and then turning around and selling them to people needing dollars at a different rate. If you bought $100 worth of Euros at one of these places, and then turned around and sold your Euros back for dollars, you'd probably get less than $90 back. That's why most business won't accept dollars or other foreign currency. If they have to exchange it into Euros, they take a significant hit.
     Your next thought might be, "Okay, I'll just use my credit card everywhere I go." Although that will work with most hotels and large purchases, it won't work for small purchases. Since credit card companies are out to make a profit too, many small businesses won't accept credit cards for purchases under a certain amount because the credit card charges will eat up all their profits. Also, many credit cards charge extra fees for foreign transactions, so you might want to look into your card's policy before deciding which one to use when traveling abroad. The same thing goes for debit cards  - some banks will charge a foreign transaction fee while others won't. Make sure you know your bank's policy before you leave.
     So how should you go about exchanging your money without paying exorbitant fees? First off, the best place to purchase Euros or other foreign currency is through your bank. Although banks will make profits off of currency exchanges too, their top priority is to keep you as their customer, since that will benefit them more in the long run. Therefore, their rates are going to be much more reasonable. If your bank has international branches, find out if they'll have conveniently located ATM machines in the cities you'll be visiting, and what the charges will be for using them. If not, you should make an educated guess regarding how much cash you are going to need. If you guess too low, you'll end up exchanging more money at a bad rate. If you guess too high, you're going to have too much left over, which won't do you much good unless you plan on returning soon. Once you've calculated how much you need, purchase the amount from a bank before you go. If your bank doesn't sell foreign currencies, find a nearby one that does. You may need to place the order ahead of time since many banks don't keep a supply of foreign currency on site. So don't wait until the last minute! If you forget to do this until it's too late, there are other options; but some are better than others. Some of the biggest traps are: exchanging your money at airports, hotels or Travelex counters (all of which are notorious for offering lousy rates), using a prepaid debit card (which comes loaded with fees), or withdrawing cash from an out-of-network ATM (for which you will end up paying charges to your bank, the bank that owns the ATM, and foreign transaction fees).
     So, be smart and plan ahead to eliminate this potential stress so that you can enjoy your vacation. After all, you've already saved up your money to pay for it once; you don't want to have to keep paying for it once you return. Happy travels!

Spotlight: Rome - The Vatican (Sistine Chapel & St. Peter's Basilica)

Spotlight: Vatican City is a walled city-state in Rome, Italy. The independent city-state was created in 1929 by the Lateran Treaty between the Holy See and Italy. According to the terms of the treaty, the Holy See has "full ownership, exclusive dominion, and sovereign authority and jurisdiction" over the city-state. The sacerdotal-monarchical state ruled by the Pope - the leader of the Roman Catholic Church. With only 110 acres, and a population of under 900 people, it is officially the smallest country in the world.
     Despite its small size, Vatican City is one of the most popular tourist destinations in the world. In fact, its unique economy is supported by the sale of stamps, souvenirs and entrance fees to its museums. Some of its more famous venues include the Sistine Chapel, St. Peter's Basilica and the Vatican Museums, which contain many of the most famous paintings, murals, and statues in the world.
     The name Vatican comes from the Etruscan word for garden. Agrippina the Elder drained the area and planted her gardens there in the early first century AD. Her son, Emperor Caligula, built a circus in her gardens, referred to as the Circus of Nero, to provide entertainment. When Constantine declared Christianity to be the official religion of the Roman Empire, the Old St. Peter's Basilica was built on the site of former circus. During the Renaissance, the New St. Peter's Basilica was built (1506-1626) on the foundations of the former one, becoming the center piece for the future Papal state.

A fountain in a Vatican courtyard

Location: Despite being a separate country, Vatican City is located completely inside the city of Rome. The public access is through St. Peter's Square, located at the western end of Via della Conciliazione.

Cost: Tour tickets range anywhere form $20-$200, depending on the type of tour you want.

Time: The Vatican Museums are open from 9 am - 6 pm. Plan on spending between 2-6 hours here, depending on your interest in history, religion and art.

Description: The entrance to Vatican City is through St. Peter's Square, located directly in front of St. Peter's Basilica. At the center of the square is an Egyptian obelisk erected in 1586. Gian Lorenzo Bernini designed the Square between 1656-1667, surrounding the square with Tuscan colonnades, four columns deep, which embrace visitors in "the maternal arms of the Mother Church." The purpose of the Square was to accommodate as many people as possible who wanted to see the Pope give his blessing.

My group from EF Tours

      The Papal Basilica of St. Peter was designed by the famous artists Donato Bromante, Michelangelo and Bernini. It is one of the largest churches in the world, and perhaps the most famous. According to tradition, it is the burial site of St. Peter, considered by Catholics to be the first Pope. It has also become the burial place of many Popes over the centuries. As a result, it is one of the most popular Pilgrimage destinations in the world. The basilica was built in the shape of a cross, with a massive dome dominating the central space which is surrounded by numerous chapels, altars, statues, etc. The most famous statue is Michelangelo's  Pietà  which displays the tender scene of Mary holding the body of her crucified son in her arms. Two curving marble staircases lead down to the underground Chapel of the Confession. Tradition states that this was the site of Peter's confession of faith, which led to his martyrdom.

Pieta

     The Sistine Chapel is a separate chapel located in the Apostolic Palace, the official residence of the Pope. The chapel's ceiling is covered in murals painted by Michelangelo over a period of 4 years (1508-1512), and is considered to be one of the greatest works of art in the world. Between 1535-1541, Michelangelo painted the wall behind the altar of the Chapel with his famous mural The Last Judgement. The nude figures in this mural led to the famous "Fig Leaf Campaign" in which many of the paintings and statues within the Vatican were censored by adding fig leaves over private parts. The side walls contain numerous frescoes, depicting the Life of Moses on one side and the Life of Christ on the other, painted by various artists in the late 1400's. Centuries of smoke and air pollution created a thick layer of grime over the revered paintings in the chapel. In 1984, a massive restoration project was implemented to remove the grime. It lasted ten years, and the results were incredible, revealing stunningly vibrant colors underneath. Although it was built primarily as the Pope's personal chapel, today the chapel is the site of the Papal conclave, held whenever a Pope dies in order to choose a new Pope.

Picture of the Sistine Chapel ceiling

     The Vatican Museums display the immense art collections gathered by Popes over the centuries. The 11 museums contain approximately 70,000 works of art, 20,000 of which are on display, including statues, busts, masks, paintings, frescoes, sculptures, sarcophagus, maps, a throne, fountains and even bathtubs.

Hercules in the Sala della Rotonda

Zeus

Rating: 5 stars (out of 5)

Things You Should Know: - There is no way to see everything. Your best option is to take a tour that will show you the highlights, particularly those that interest you.
- Rather than wait in an extremely long line to purchase tickets, you should purchase them online.
- The last Sunday of the month, the Vatican Museum is open to the public for free. Of course you will have to wait in line for many hours before it opens if you want to get in since it is only open from 9 am - 12:30 pm on that day.
- One of the Vatican gift shops offers the option of having the Pope bless your purchase.
- One of the entrances, the Holy Door, is only opened during jubilees. We happened to be there during a Jubilee year - a special year of Mercy.
- You can't take pictures inside the Sistine Chapel.

Nearby: Castel Sant'Angelo, Corte Supremo di Cassazione, Piazza Navona, Villa Doria Pamphilj

Spotlight: Rome - the Forum

Spotlight: The Roman Forum was the heart of Ancient Rome. It started as a marketplace, but developed into the political, commercial and social center of Roman life. Known as the Forum Magnum, it was the site of  triumphal processions, elections, a venue for public speeches, criminal trials, and even gladiator battles.
     Located in the small valley between the Capitoline and Palatine Hills, the land on which the Forum was built used to be a marshy lake containing water runoff from Rome's seven hills. The lake was drained in ancient times and became a central marketplace for its inhabitants. The Forum's earliest shrines and temples were built along the southeastern edge including the Temple of Saturn, the Regia (the first royal palace), the Temple of Vesta, and the complex of the Vestal Virgins. These were all rebuilt after the rise of Imperial Rome. The northwestern ridge included shrines such as the Umbilicus Urbis and the Shrine of Vulcan. This area eventually developed into the political center of the Forum as new buildings were added piecemeal over the centuries, including the Senate House, government buildings, and tribunals. The sides of the Forum were defined by two large basilicas - the Basilica Aemilia on the north and the Basilica Julia on the south. As Rome grew, adjacent Forums were added to meet the needs of the growing population. The last major addition to the old Forum was the Basilica of Maxentius, built during the reign of Constantine in 312 AD.

Capitoline Hill

Palatine Hill

     After major military victories, the Forum became the gathering place for elaborate military processions known as Triumphs. The victorious general would enter the city via the Triumphal Gate, circumnavigated Palatine Hill, then marched down the Via Sacra into the Forum where he was greeted by ravenous crowds. Upon reaching the Temple of Jupiter Optimus Maximus, he and his men would be treated to lavish banquets.

Via Sacra

Triumphal Arch

     The most famous event to occur in the Forum was the funeral of Julius Caesar. After being brutally assassinated in 44 BC by members of the Roman Senate, his general, Marc Antony, gave a stirring funeral oration, which was followed by the public burning of his body.

Julius Caesar's "sepulcher"

Caesar's funeral pyre

     Due to its origins, the ground on which the Forum was built was continually rising over the centuries. Whenever the Tiber flooded, it dumped silt in this lowland area. Runoff from the hills has also continually added sediment to the valley floor. As the ground level rose, residents simply paved over the remnants of earlier buildings creating a stratified city. After the fall of the Roman Empire, many of the structures in the Forum were damaged or destroyed. Many of the old Roman temples were converted into Christian churches. Other structures were dismantled, and the materials used elsewhere. Gradually, the Forum was abandoned, and debris was allowed to accumulate, covering up the ruins of what had once been the most important gathering place in the world, and turning it into a cow pasture.

Location: The Roman Forum is located along the Via Sacra, and was the heart of city during the days of the Roman Empire. The closest major road is the Via dei Fori Imperiali

Cost: Tickets cost 12 euros from the official site and includes admission to the Colosseum, Palatine, and current exhibitions. Tours from private vendors cost anywhere from $40 - several hundred dollars for VIP service. The cost is 7.50 euros for citizens of the European Union, and free to children under age 18.

Time: The Forum is open from 8:30 am until about 1 hour before sunset. You could spend anywhere from 1-4 hours exploring the ruins depending on your level of interest.

Description: Although interest in the old Forum was sparked during the Renaissance, excavation efforts didn't begin until the 18th century. It wasn't until the 20th century that those excavations blossomed into a large scale effort. Today, the Forum is a sprawl of ruins that are being painstakingly excavated by archaeologists in an attempt to uncover the physical remnants of Rome's glorious past.
     One of the most important excavations is the Complex of the Vestal Virgins. The residence of these honored citizens, the Atrium Vestae, was a three-story 50 room palace located behind the Temple of Vesta. It was rebuilt several times over the course of empire, and was even used for a time as the papal court after the order was disbanded following the compulsory conversion to Christianity. Today, remains of the statues of the Vestals can be seen in the Atrium Vestae.

Temple of Vesta

Atrium Vestae

statues of the Vestals

     Other buildings and monuments in the Forum include: the Tabularium (Records Hall), Mamertine Prison, Septimius Severus Arch, Column of Phocas, the Milliarium Aureum, Basilica Emilia, Biglietteria Foro Romano, Antonius and Faustina Temple, Temple of Divo Romolo, the Antiquarium Forense, Temple of Divo Giulio, Temple of Dioscuri, Chiesa Ortodossa di San Teodoro al Palatino, and the Palantine Museum on Palatine Hill.

Temple of Romulus

Mamertine Prison

Antoninus and Faustina Temple

Rating: 4 stars (out of 5)

Things You Should Know: - The excavation process is ongoing. Each year a new area is designated for excavation, uncovering new wonders from Rome's epic past.
- Your official ticket to the Forum, Colosseum and Palatine Hill is good for 2 days.
- If you visit the Forum without a guide, a detailed guide book, or an audio tour, you probably won't have any idea what you are looking at besides a bunch of ruins. I strongly recommend doing some research ahead of time and picking a tour that fits your budget and time schedule. The following website has a variety of tours with different prices and times to give you an idea of what's out there.
- The Forum covers a large area with very little shade. Make sure you wear comfortable walking shoes and bring plenty of water.
- The ticket booth near the Colosseum has the longest lines. If you purchase your ticket at Palatine Hill, the lines are much shorter. Or you can order them online from the official web site, but there is a processing fee.

Nearby: The Colosseum, Campidoglio, The Altar of the Fatherland, Capitoline Museums, Marcello Theater

Spotlight: Rome - The Colosseum (Il Colosseo)

Spotlight: In 64 AD, a great fire swept through Rome. Emperor Nero then used much of the newly cleared land to build his Golden Palace. The people despised Nero for his excesses and misrule, and he eventually took his own life. During the Civil Wars that rose up in the wake of his death, Vespasian rose to power in 69 AD. In an attempt to appease the people, he returned the land upon which the Golden Palace had been built to the people and decreed that an amphitheater would be built where the people could enjoy gladiator battles and other forms of entertainment. After nearly a decade of construction, Vespasian's son, Emperor Titus, dedicated Il Colosseo in 80 AD with a festival that included 100 days of games.
     Measuring 620 by 513 feet, the Colosseum was the largest amphitheater in the Roman Empire. It was considered an engineering marvel since it was free-standing rather than dug into a hillside as were many amphitheaters of the era. The Colosseum had three stories of arched entrances, each supported with a different style of column - the simplistic Doric on the bottom, Ionic in the middle, and the more ornate Corinthian columns on the top level. The Colosseum seated more than 50,000 spectators, arranged by social class. Awnings covered the top story to protect the citizenry from the burning sun as they watched gladiator combats, hunts, wild animal fights, dramas from mythology, reenactments of famous battles, and mock naval battles (for which the arena was flooded with water). Most gladiators were men, and consisted of slaves, condemned criminals or prisoners of war.

     The Colosseum was actively used for four centuries before it gradually fell into disuse. By the 6th century, it was abandoned, and many of its stone blocks were quarried for other building projects. In the 18th century, several Popes sought to preserve the the great amphitheater since it stood as a symbol of early Christian martyrs who were rumored to have been killed there in various gladiatorial events. Although nearly two-thirds of the original building has been destroyed, a massive reconstruction effort began in the 1990's, leading to renewed interest in this engineering masterpiece.

Location: The Colosseum is located in the Piazza del Colosseo, 1, 00184, Rome.

Cost: Tickets cost 12 euros from the official site and includes admission to the Colosseum, Palatine, and current exhibitions. Tours from private venders cost anywhere from $40 - several hundred dollars for VIP service. The cost is 7.50 euros for citizens of the European Union, and free to children under age 18.

Time: Opens at 8:30 am daily. Closing times vary on the season (usually between 3:30-6:30). Allow 1-2 hours to explore, but you might need to arrive early if you take a tour to get through security.

Description: The Colosseum today is a shell of what it used to be in its prime. However, just visiting here gives you a glimpse of what it might have been like to visit during the height of the Roman Empire. You can see the box seats which were reserved for the Emperor (north end) and the Vestal Virgins (south end), flanked by a broad podium for the senatorial class. The names of some fifth century senators can be seen carved into the stonework even today. The tier above the senators was reserved for the non-senatorial nobles. Above them were the wealthy plebeians, followed by the poor plebeians. It isn't hard to draw some parallels to stadium seating today.

Senatorial section

     The arena measured 272 feet by 157 feet, and was comprised of wooden floorboards covered by sand (arena in Latin). The floorboards and sand are now gone, allowing visitors to get a good view of the hypogeum - or underground network. Although not part of the original construction, the hypogeum was built under the direction of Emperor Domitian and consisted of two levels of tunnels and cages to hold the gladiators and wild animals prior to the contests. Eighty elevator shafts with trap doors allowed easy access to the arena for caged animals or special scenery pieces. Special tunnels allowed the Emperor and the Vestal Virgins to enter and leave without having to pass through the masses. With the addition of the hypogeum, the Colosseum could no longer be flooded for naval battles.

close up of the hypogeum

recreated floor panel with a trap door

     To the east of the Colosseum are the remains of the Ludus Magnus - a training school for gladiators. The Ludus Matutinus was a training school to train animal fighters. Also nearby was the Armamentarium - an armory used to store weapons for the battles. The Sanitarium was another building used to treat wounded gladiators, while the Spoliarium was where dead gladiators were stripped of their armor and disposed of.

ruins of nearby support buildings

Rating: 4 1/2 stars (out of 5)

Things You Should Know: - I highly recommend taking a tour. A good docent can add so much more detail to what you are seeing, and a better perspective on the lifestyle of the people of that time. However, the official Rome tourism site warns against purchasing from unofficial tour guides on site since they often charge exorbitant prices and aren't officially licensed. The following website has a variety of tours with different prices and times to give you an idea of what's out there.
- There is a museum on the upper floor.
- The ticket booth near the Colosseum has the longest lines. If you purchase your ticket at Palatine Hill, the lines are much shorter.

Nearby: Arch of Constantine, St. Clement Basilica, the Forum, Campidoglio, Altar of the Fatherland

Arch of Constantine

Spotlight: Rome - The Pantheon

Spotlight: The Pantheon is a former Roman temple whose name means "[temple] of every god." Originally it was the site of a temple built by Marcus Agrippa (27 BC), which was destroyed. The current temple was built by Emperor Hadrian and dedicated circa 126 AD. The building is circular with a portico of large, granite Corinthian columns. The Rotunda is covered by a large concrete dome with an oculus in the middle. The diameter of the dome and its height at its apex are both 43.3 meters. Although the oculus is subject to outside weather, it also serves as the main source of light and ventilation for the building. When it rains, the water drains down the slightly convex floor to the still functioning Roman drainpipes beneath.

the oculus

     Inside, the niches originally housed statues of various Roman deities. In 608 AD, the Pantheon was given as a gift to Pope Boniface IV by Byzantine Emperor Phocas. He converted it into a church and dedicated it to Saint Mary and the Martyrs, replacing the original statues with new ones dedicated to Mary and various saints. This act saved the building from the destruction that befell most other Roman buildings from this time period at the hands of zealots who sought to rid the city of all pagan influences during the Middle Ages. Thus the Pantheon remains the best preserved monument of ancient Rome. During the Renaissance, the Pantheon was adorned with many paintings. It also became the burial place of several famous Italians including painters Raphael and Annibale Carracci, composer Arcangelo Corelli, and architect Baldassare Peruzzi. The Pantheon is still in use as a Catholic Church, and weddings are occasionally held there.

Tomb of Raphael

Location: The Pantheon is located in downtown Rome at Piazza della Rotonda.

Cost: free; guided tours are variable

Time: The Pantheon is open from 8:30 am to 7:30 pm daily, with reduced hours on Sunday and holidays. Allow yourself about 30-45 minutes to see it completely.

Description: The Pantheon is one of the oldest structures still in use in Rome. The first thing you notice as you approach are the 16 huge 39-foot tall granite columns that were imported from Egypt. These massive 60-ton columns were dragged more than 100 km from a quarry to the Nile on wooden sledges before being floated down to the Mediterranean Sea on barges. From there they were sailed to the port of Ostia, floated up the Tiber, and then dragged to the temple site. Although they have suffered some weathering over the centuries, they still remain in remarkable condition.

     The Rotunda dome weighs 4,535 metric tons. With a diameter of 43.3 meters, it is the largest unsupported dome in the world. The Romans were master engineers, and they used various methods to create this engineering masterpiece. In addition to eliminating some weight with the oculus, they also used different mixtures of concrete at different levels within the dome. Also, at its base, the dome is about 21 feet thick, while at its apex it is only 4 feet thick. Eight barrel vaults containing many intersecting arches are used to carry much of the weight. The most interesting technique, though, was the use of hidden chambers built within the rotunda as part of its sophisticated structural system.
     Circles and squares form the main theme within the Rotunda. The floor uses a checkerboard pattern, while the dome features five rings of 28 sunken panels (coffers).
     High altars and apses were designed in the 1700's by Alessandro Specchi to feature Christian art within the Rotunda. The feature piece is the Virgin and Child, given to Pope Boniface for the building's dedication. The various niches around the Rotunda contain different chapels decorated with paintings, frescoes, statues and tombs of kings and famous artists.

Rating: 4 1/2 stars (out of 5)

Things You Should Know: - The Pantheon still functions as a church. Therefore, when you enter, it is respectful to remove your hat.
- If you walk around the exterior of the Pantheon, you can see the excavations that have been done of the previous buildings that were on the site.

- Because of the high amount of tourists, the piazza in front of the Pantheon is a popular place for beggars and pickpockets.
- Pope Urban the VIII melted down every scrap of bronze that once adorned the ceiling to the outrage of many Romans.
- April 21, the day celebrated as the founding of Rome, is marked by a special lighting effect in which the midday sun strikes the metal grille above the doorway, bathing the courtyard with light shining out of the Pantheon.
- The Fountain of the Pantheon in the square in front of the building was designed by Giacomo Della Porta in 1575 and sculpted out of marble by Leonardo Sormani.

- The Pantheon is closed on Jan. 1, May 1, and Dec. 25. Also, tourists are not allowed during Masses (holidays 10:30 am, Saturdays 5:00 pm).

Nearby: Obelisco della Minerva, Piazza Navona, Il Tempio di Adriano, Trevi Fountain