Spotlight: Anchorage - Tony Knowles Coastal Trail

Spotlight: The Tony Knowles Coastal Trail is one of the most beautiful coastal trails in the nation. The eleven mile trail goes from Elderberry Park to Kincaid Park and only has slight elevation changes along its course. Open all year, the trail is popular for a wide variety of activities: hiking, biking, rollerblading, jogging and even skiing. Keep your eyes open along the trail and you might spot moose, whales, eagles, or even a wolf. The Trail features a portion of the Anchorage Light Speed Planet Walk, designed to show to scale the size of the planets and their relative distance to the sun. Each step is roughly equivalent to the distance light travels in one second.

Location: The Tony Knowles Coastal Trail begins at Elderberry Park at 1297 W. 5th Avenue (in the northwest section of Anchorage), and winds its way 11 miles along the coast to Kincaid Park at 9401 Raspberry Road on the western part of the city (just southwest of the airport).

Cost: The trail is free, but I would recommend renting a bike since there are a couple of bike rental shops nearby.

Time: You can spend as little or as much time as you like exploring the trail and the parks along the way, but most people will probably spend 2-4 hours. To walk the entire distance of the Anchorage Light Speed Planet Walk (see link above) will take you about 5 1/2 hours (each way).

Description: After renting bikes, we made our way to the trailhead at Elderberry Park. We then continued along the paved trail through the mud flats along the northern side of the trail (by the bay). It was nice, but I wasn't overly impressed. We stopped to look at the salmon run at Chester Creek, then continued on, admiring the mansions along the southern side of the trail. Soon it entered a forested section of the trail which was stunning. At that point, you would have no clue that Alaska's largest city was only a couple of miles away. We took the turnoff to explore Earthquake Park, which revisits the devastating earthquake of 1964 which reached a magnitude of 9.2 the largest quake ever recorded in North America. From there the trail went around the airport to Kincaid Park, but we turned around because the rain was picking up and we were wet and cold.

Rating: 4 stars (out of 5)

Things You Should Know: - Be prepared for precipitation or cold. The weather can change suddenly, so you should dress in layers and have a poncho handy.
- Although Pablo's Bike shop is closer, we found better prices at another shop just north of the train station.
- Anchorage is decked out in beautiful wild flowers during the summer months.

Resolution Park (statue of Captain James Cook)

wild flowers

Nearby: Westchester Lagoon, Alaska Aviation Museum, Lake Hood Seaplane Base, Resolution Park

Lake Hood Seaplane Base

Spotlight: Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center

Spotlight: "The Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center is a nonprofit organization that takes in orphaned and injured animals from the wild and provides refuge for them. With the purchase of an admission ticket, you can choose between driving the 1.5-mile loop or enjoy your time and walk through the beautiful landscape. Our resident animals include brown bear, black bear, moose, muskox, caribou, wolves, birds, porcupine, wood bison, elk and more! Free to all visitors is the daily animal programs that show an in-depth interaction between animal care staff and our resident animals." The Center is located on about 700 acres at the head of the Turnagain Arm at the entrance to Portage Valley along the Seward Highway. Originally opened in 1993 as Big Game Alaska, it became a non-profit organization in 1999 and renamed itself the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center.

Location: The Conservation Center is located at Mile 79 Seward Highway near Girdwood south of Anchorage.

Cost: $15/adult (18-64), $12/seniors & active military, $10/youth (7-17); The Walk on the Wildside Tour costs $100/person (includes price of admission)

Time: Open daily, but hours of operation vary from month to month. Plan on spending about 2 hours.

Description: The Conservation Center was a last-minute addition to our trip, yet one of the neatest things we did. The enclosures are much larger than most zoos, allowing the animals to roam freely within their habitats. Boardwalks and high fences allow visitors to get close up views of the massive animals that include grizzly bears, black bears, moose, elk, bison, caribou, wolves and more than a dozen other creatures. Although you can drive the 1.5 mile loop, we decided to walk it so as to go at our own pace without worrying about who was behind us or trying to find a parking spot at the designated areas.

Elk

Muskox

Black Bear

     My favorite habitat was the grizzly bears. As we walked along the raised boardwalk we spotted one of the grizzlies lounging in the stream. Suddenly, the other grizzly came around a bend in the hill about ten meters away. The first grizzly hopped up and the two stared at each other for about five seconds before the second one started chasing the first one. When he caught up with the first one, they wrestled for a bit before resuming their own separate activities.

Grizzlies sizing each other up

     We also really enjoyed watching the wolves getting fed. When we first walked by the wolf enclosure, we couldn't see any wolves; which apparently were hiding in the tall grass. As soon as the workers showed up, so did the wolves. As the workers tossed dead rats over the fence, they answered our questions and pointed out the dynamics of the pack. At the end, they led us in a wolf howl, and one of the four wolves even joined in. We also got to see a young black bear being fed. The trainer actually went into the enclosure and interacted with the bear as she fed him right from the palm of her hand.

Leader of the pack

Wolf Howl

Feeding Time

     My daughter preferred the herbivores. Her favorite was the caribou. One of them had the largest rack I've ever seen on any deer.

Caribou

Rating: 4 stars (out of 5)

Things You Should Know: - Guests are encouraged to dress appropriately: solid, comfortable footwear, hats, rain gear, sun block, etc.
- Be sure to check the daily schedule for feeding times of different animals.
- The Walk on the Wildside Tour is a 90 minute walking tour available for guests 10 and up. The tour is offered daily from May 1 - Sept. 30 at 10:00 am and 3:30 pm (rain or shine). During the remainder of the year it is offered at noon. Although I'm sure the tour is great, you can take your own self-guided tour for the price of admission.

Nearby: Portage Valley Cabins & RV Park, Alyeska Resort & Hotel Alyeska, Seven Glaciers Restaurant, Double Musky Inn

Spotlight: Salt Lake City - The Leonardo

Spotlight: The Leonardo is a museum dedicated to open your mind to new possibilities and discover your inner genius. The museum opened its doors in 2011 with the goal to open visitors' minds to explore possibilities in the fields of science, math, technology and art. Its educational philosophy is based on the methods of its namesake - Leonardo da Vinci who continually allowed his curiosity to guide his experiments. Unfortunately, the museum has been plagued by financial woes since opening its doors, and may be forced to close unless it can find a way to improve its fortunes.

Location: The Leonardo Museum is located in Library Square at 209 E 500 S, Salt Lake City, UT. 

Cost: $12.95/adult, $8.95/child (3-12), $9.95/senior, student or military

Time: Open daily from 10:00 am - 5:00 pm. Plan on spending from 1-3 hours.

Description: The Leonardo hosts a variety of different exhibits. FLIGHT is an interactive exhibit that allows visitors to learn about different human experiments with flight over the years, with successes and failures documented in film. Visitors can explore a massive C-131 aircraft that helps them discover the secrets of flight. Two flight simulators allow visitors to experience what it is like to pilot one of these massive vehicles.

     Perception: The Illusion of Reality helps visitors explore how their brains work - distorting, adding or subtracting elements from reality in order to make sense of what their senses (particularly hearing, sight and touch) are telling them. My daughter was fascinated by the optical illusions.

     Woman/Women celebrates the achievements of women through the course of history including several contemporary women who are helping to shape the world today. It includes a film entitled 50/50 by Emmy-nominated filmmaker Tiffany Shlain.
     The Innovation Showcase highlights inventions that have changed the world, focusing particularly on inventions by Utahns - such as the Frisbee, the artificial heart and television.
     The Young Inventors Garden allows young inventors to explore their own creativity through Legos, puzzles and a variety of other interactive experiences.

far away view

close up view

     Other attractions include: the O.C. Tanner Atrium, Leonardo's Workshop, Leonardo's Studio and Leonardo's Laboratory.

Rating: 4 stars (out of 5)

Things You Should Know: - You need to provide ID to get the student or military discount.
- Entrance fees to the Leonardo are covered if you have an active Salt Lake Pass.
-Parking is available below Library Square.

Nearby: Salt Palace Convention Center, Clark Planetarium, Gilgal Sculpture Garden, Tracy Aviary

Spotlight: Kenai Fjords National Park

Spotlight: Kenai Fjords National Park was established in 1980 to protect the Harding Icefield and the animals that live there. The Harding Icefield contains almost 40 glaciers. In the frigid waters of the bay, and the pristine forests of the peninsula and nearby islands, a delicate ecosystem thrives. Some of the animals that live here are: orcas, humpback whales, seals, sea lions, otters, puffins, ducks, geese, porpoises, herring, salmon, bears, moose, mountain goats, wolverines, marmots, beavers, rabbits and myriad fish and birds. The only road in the park goes from Seward to the Exit Glacier Nature Center, located at the northeastern edge of the park. The best way to explore the park is on one of the many boat tours departing out of Seward and Whittier daily. Some of these tours have a park ranger directing your attention to points of interest - such as animals and glaciers - and provide a wealth of knowledge about the park.

cliffs with waterfalls

islands poking up from the sea

Location: Kenai Fjords National Park is located on the Kenai Peninsula in near the town of Seward.

Cost: Free - no entrance fee or charge for camping at Exit Glacier campground. Public use cabins are available for $75/night. Commercial boat tours can range anywhere from $75/adult to $250/adult. 

Time: Although the park is open all year, the vast majority of visitors come between Memorial Day and Labor Day. Minimal services are available the rest of the year. During the summer, the Kenai Fjords National Park Visitor Center (in Seward) is open from 9:00 am - 7:00 pm. The Exit Glacier Nature Center is open from 9:00 am - 5:00 pm. Plan on spending 1-2 hours at Exit Glacier. Boat or kayaking tours can be a few hours or all day.

Description: The Exit Glacier Nature Center has several different displays on glaciers, climate change and the animals that live within the park boundaries. From there, a wheelchair-accessible loop trail lead to the Glacier Overlook. There are other more rugged trails that lead to the edge of Exit Glacier as well as other points in the Harding Icefield. Exit Glacier is shrinking, and signposts along the way show where the edge of the glacier was at various years since the late 1800's, helping visitors realize how quickly it is actually shrinking. As the ice field shrinks, a lush, temperate rainforest has grown in the fertile soil left behind.

Exit Glacier

Exit Glacier Nature Center

Signpost of where the glacier was in 2005 (to get perspective, look at the people on the far right)

     We took a boat tour of the fjords with Major Marine Tours. We took the 7 1/2 hour tour. Even though it was long, it exceeded our expectations. We saw several glaciers including close up views of Holgate Glacier and Aialik Glacier. At both glaciers we were able to witness ice calving from the glacier and dropping into the water. Although we were the mandated quarter mile away from the ice, we could clearly hear the ice crack, which was usually followed by chunks of ice dropping into the water. Although most of the chunks didn't look very big, the fact that we could clearly see them from a quarter mile away indicate that they were much bigger than we realized. One time in particular stands out - on that particular occasion, the cracking ice sounded like thunder, which was followed by a large sheet of ice crashing into the bay with a loud splash. 

Bear Glacier (the largest in the Harding Icefield)

Holgate Glacier

Aialik Glacier "calving"

     From there, we sailed among the island looking for sea life. We saw a handful of humpback whales, dozens of Steller Sea Lions, Harbor Seals and puffins, otters, eagles, kittiwakes and a porpoise.

whale

sea lions

puffin eating a fish

seals

Rating: 5 stars (out of 5)

Things You Should Know: - The road to the Exit Glacier Nature Center isn't plowed during winter months.

- Accommodations are available in nearby Seward. There is also a walk-in summer-use campground at Exit Glacier. Click here for more information on public use cabins.

- Ranger Programs are available between Memorial Day Weekend and Labor Day Weekend.

Nearby: Kachemak Bay State Park, Chugach State Park, Alaska SeaLife Center, Tustumena Lake

Spotlight: Denali National Park

Spotlight: Denali National Park and Preserve is centered around Denali (formerly known as Mount McKinley), the highest peak in North America. Denali means "The High One" in the native Athabaskan language. If you are lucky enough to see it, you'll understand why - it towers over most of the neighboring mountains. Mount McKinley National Park was originally established in 1917, after plans were drawn up by the Boone and Crockett Club and submitted to Congress Alaskan delegate James Wickersham. Visitation to the park was extremely sparse until the completion of Highway 3, which allowed motor vehicles access to the park from either Anchorage or Fairbanks. The park currently covers more than 6 million acres (larger than the entire state of New Hampshire), but is only serviced by the 91-mile long Denali Park Road (only a small portion of which is paved) extending from the park entrance to Kantishna.

Location: Denali National Park is located about halfway between Anchorage and Fairbanks. The easiest ways to get there are by taking Highway 3 or taking one of the trains that run between the two cities.

Train from Anchorage to Denali

Cost: A $10/person fee is collected year round. All day tours run about $180/person.

Time: Depending on the type of tour you wish to take, you can spend anywhere from 2 hours (self-guided tour) to 13+ hours (Kantishna bus tour) inside the park.

Description: Private vehicles are only permitted on the first fifteen miles of the Denali Park Road. If you wish to explore further, you may take a tour, use the transit bus service (for a fee), or obtain a backcountry permit.
     We took the Kantishna bus tour. This 13-hour tour took us along the entire stretch of road from the park entrance to the Kantishna Roadhouse. Along the way, our bus driver/tour guide gave us detailed information on the flora and fauna as well as historical background about the park. Anytime someone spotted wildlife, we stopped so that everyone could take pictures. It was an uncommonly good day to spot grizzly bears (we saw 13) but not moose (zero). We also saw six caribou, a handful of Dahl sheep (way up on a slope), several falcons, ptarmigans (Alaska's state bird), marmots and several ground squirrels.

Mother grizzly with her two cubs

caribou

Dahl sheep

falcon

ptarmigan

marmot

      We stopped at the Eielson Visitor Center where we had a great view of Denali (simply referred to as "the mountain"). We were lucky enough to be there on a day where we could actually see it. Evidently, only about 30% of tourists to Alaska even see part of the mountain. The entire mountain is only visible a few days a month on average.

Denali

The High One

Eielson Visitor Center

     The final stage of our journey took us past Wonder Lake to the Kantishna Roadhouse. There, we had a two hour break which included a nice lunch and an activity - either panning for gold or watching a sled dog presentation. We chose to see the sled dogs. Since there was no snow, they practice during the summer by pulling a four-wheeler around the ranch.

Rating: 5 stars (out of 5)

Things You Should Know: - No food service is offered beyond the park entrance area. Know how long you will be gone and be prepared with the appropriate food, drink, clothing and gear: hat, gloves, raingear, proper footgear, insect repellent, binoculars and camera.
- Summers in Denali are usually cool, wet and windy with occasional snow. In winter, the weather is more predictable - dark and snowy. From mid-September to mid-May, services are limited. The park road is only kept plowed to Park Headquarters (Mile 3.4). The backcountry can only be reached on snowshoes, skis or dogsled.
- If you plan on hiking, be aware that Denali is a true wilderness. Encounters with grizzly bears and/or moose can be extremely dangerous so be prepared by knowing how to respond.
- A free courtesy shuttle takes visitors from the Visitor Center to the Savage River (15 mile mark). For a fee, the transit bus service runs from mid-May to mid-September from the Wilderness Access Center to Toklat River (six hour round trip), Eielson Visitor Center (8 hours) and Wonder Lake (11 hours).
- Overnight backpacking trips require careful planning and a backcountry permit which is only available after an in-person orientation with a ranger at the Backcountry Information Center.
- Denali and Mount Foraker climbers must register 60 days prior to the start of their ascent and pay a special use fee. Contact the Talkeetna Ranger Station (907-733-2231).

"Somewhat" Nearby: Denali State Park, Susitna River, Chugach State Park, Nelchina Public Use Area

Travel Tip #59 - Check reviews from other Customers

     Five years ago, my wife and I went on a cruise with some friends of ours. In preparation for the trip, we got a list of the shore excursions and decided what we wanted to do at each island. Relying solely on the cruise ships descriptions of each excursion, we debated among the various options until we finally made our choices. Among our choices, we decided to take a tour of what was labeled "the world's only drive-in volcano." It turned out to be a major disappointment - primarily because it was false advertising. First of all, it wasn't true - we'd been to other places in Yellowstone and Hawaii that fit their definition of a "drive-in volcano." Second, it wasn't nearly as cool as it sounded. Every few minutes one of our fellow tourists would ask when we were going to enter the volcano and our tour guide had to keep explaining that we were already in the collapsed caldera of the volcano. Third, by taking that tour, we missed out on another tour we would have enjoyed much more - swimming with sting rays.
     The reason for mentioning this trip is to illustrate the importance of reading independent reviews. The reviews the cruise company provides are going to be biased in favor of the trip since they want you to spend your money on the tour. Yet, if we would have done more research, we would have realized that the volcano was basically sulfur pits instead of the magnificent caldera we imagined. Since then, we have done a better job at checking out reviews. Not only have they helped us decide which places to visit when we are short on time, they also given us hints on the best time of day to visit them.
     In addition to reading reviews, I also recommend writing your own reviews. If you liked something, let other people know about it. If you didn't, other people need to know that too. You might be the voice of reason that makes a positive difference in helping someone else have a great vacation instead of just a good one.
     P.S. I noticed that since posting my own review of the aforementioned volcano, the official tour site has changed their definition to the "Caribbean's only drive-in volcano." It might only be a small change, but at least it is more accurate than before.

Spotlight: southern Utah - Kanarraville Falls

Spotlight: Kanarraville Falls is one of my favorite hikes. First of all, I love waterfalls, and Kanarraville has several of them. Second, the canyon is just gorgeous! I'd heard about the hike years ago, but my daughter reminded me of it when she hiked it while attending school at SUU. The popularity of the hike has soared in recent years due to exposure in social media - so much so that an $8 fee was recently added in an effort to discourage hikers from coming in. The excessive travel up and down the canyon is having an impact on the flora and fauna. Also, the huge influx of visitors to the tiny town has caused problems such as parking in unauthorized locations and contamination of the water supply. Therefore, if you go, please park in designated areas and follow the principles of "Leave No Trace."

fall colors

Location: Kanarraville is a tiny town along I-15 in southern Utah, about 13 miles south of Cedar City. The trailhead is located on the eastern side of town on 100 North just past 300 East.

Cost: $8 for a hiking permit; $10 for parking

Time: The hike will take about 2-4 hours, depending on the hiking skills of those in your group.

Description: The hike is officially 4.8 miles, but can be shorter or longer depending on how far up the canyon you go. The hike ranges from moderate to strenuous. For the first part of the hike, you hike along a dirt road. It eventually turns into a trail that crosses the creek several times. Eventually, the creek becomes the trail. When you reach the first waterfall, you can either climb the wooden ladder with metal struts, or turn back. When you come to the second waterfall, you can scale the large boulder on the right using the rope that is attached there. Further up the creek you will need to climb over several boulders that are slick with moss. Eventually you will arrive at a rickety wooden ladder that is somewhat sketchy. This is where we turned around. Along the way, take time to take photos of the gorgeous scenery on either side of the creek.

steep trail down the side of a hill

Crossing the river

Following the "trail"

the "first" waterfall

climbing the ladder

the "second" falls

the "third" falls

the "fourth" falls

Rating: 5 stars (out of 5)

Things You Should Know: - Your GPS may tell you to head up the dirt road, but it is closed to regular traffic.
- Wear close-toed shoes that you don't mind getting wet. While you can keep them dry for the first half of the hike, eventually you'll have to hike in the river. Just be careful about stepping on mossy rocks. I almost fell a couple of times, and my sister-in-law did.
- The best time to hike this trail is during the summer or a hot spring or autumn day. We went mid-October and the water was freezing.
- Bring dry socks and a second pair of shoes to change into once you get back to the car.
- This is a challenging hike because of the water factor. There are also wooden ladders and ropes to get up a couple of sections that can be difficult for small children or people with balance issues.
- You can purchase the permit online or at the kiosk at the trailhead. The permit can only be purchased with credit cards or debit cards.
- Use the restrooms located at the trail head so as not to contaminate the water in the canyon.
- Dogs are not allowed in the canyon.
- This hike reminds me of the Virgin Narrows more than any other hike I've been on. With that in mind, it would be wise to check the weather upstream before hiking. You wouldn't want to hike it if there was danger of a flash flood.

Nearby: Zion National Park, Quichapa Lake, Cedar Breaks NM, Brian Head