Spotlight: Madrid, Spain

Spotlight: Madrid is not only the capital of Spain, it is also its most populous city, with about 3.4 million inhabitants, and 7 million in its metropolitan area. The city lies on the River Manzanares, in the approximate geographical center of the country. Although Madrid's history dates back to prehistoric times, it wasn't a city of any great significance until the Middle Ages. The Muslims built a fortress there in the 9th century to protect the borders of Al-Andalus against incursion by Castilla-Leon. In 1083, it was seized by Alfonso VI as a base to launch a Christian offensive against Muslim-held Toledo. It wasn't until 1202 that Madrid received its first charter to regulate the municipal council. During the early 1500's, Madrid experienced a population boom. However, the city was still little more than a town when Felipe II decided to establish his court in the old Alcazar in June 1561. The move accelerated the city's exponential growth rate as the population soared from 18,000 in 1561 to 80,000 by century's end. Save for a short interval from 1601-1606, when the court was temporarily moved to Valladolid, Madrid has served as Spain's capital city ever since. Thus Madrid was built to be the capital of what was then the largest empire in the world.

 Madrid as seen from the Palace

     Since then, Madrid has suffered its share of invasions or revolts, including: the War of Spanish Succession, the Esquilache Riots, the Dos de Mayo Uprising during the French occupation during the Peninsular War, the Glorious Revolution of 1868, the 1934 Insurrection, and of course the Spanish Civil War. Ironically, Spain's Civil War most likely kept Spain neutral during World War II, allowing the city to rebuild for what has been more than eight decades of relative peace. Following the fall of the Franco regime, the new Constitution of 1978 confirmed Madrid as the capital of Spain. The city is dotted with many wonderful plazas and monuments including: the Plaza Mayor, the Victory Arch, Cybele Fountain, the Neptune Fountain, the Puerta de Alcala, the Plaza de España, the Plaza de Colon (Columbus), Plaza de Oriente, the Temple of Debod, and the Oso y Madrono in the famous Puerta del Sol. Madrid is also home to two world famous football clubs - Atletico Madrid and Real Madrid.

El Oso y Madrono at Puerta del Sol

Real Madrid Stadium

     Madrid is also famous for its world-class museums, including: the Prado Museum, Reina Sofia Museum, the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum, the National Archeological Museum, the Royal Academy of Fine Arts of San Fernando, CaixaForum Madrid, and the Museum of the Americas. The city is also dotted with many fabulous parks. In fact, with more than 8% of the city dedicated to green areas, all of Madrid's citizens have a sizeable park within a 15-minute walk of their home. Some of the most famous include: El Buen Retiro, the Royal Botanical Garden of Madrid, Parque del Oeste, El Capricho, the Campo del Moro, the Sabatini Gardens, Casa del Campo, and the Monte de El Pardo. Of the many beautiful buildings around the city, my favorite is Cybele Palace. Once the country's national post office, it now serves as the Madrid City Hall and Public Cultural Center.

Cybele Palace

Activities:

Royal Palace of Madrid: Upon his death in 1700, Carlos II, the last Spanish monarch of the Habsburg Dynasty, named his grand-nephew, Felipe V of Anjou (a grandson of King Louis the XIV of France), as his successor. However, many Europeans felt that the throne should have been granted to Archduke Charles of Austria - particularly because they felt that the balance of power in Europe was at stake. The controversy bloomed into the War of Spanish Succession (1701-1714). After Charles was named the Holy Roman Emperor in 1711, the idea of him also inheriting the throne of Spain became less appealing to some of his allies - particularly England, which withdrew its support. The Treaty of Baden in 1714 brought the conflict to a close, and Felipe V became the first Spanish king of the Bourbon Dynasty. When the Alcazar of Madrid burned down in 1734, Felipe V determined to build a bigger, grander palace on the site, more reminiscent of the Palace of Versailles in his native France. The resulting Royal Palace of Madrid was built between 1738-1755. With 135,000 square meters of floor space, and 3,418 rooms, the Royal Palace of Madrid is the largest royal palace in Europe. Although the palace is the "official residence" of the Spanish Royal Family, the family currently resides at the Palace of Zarzuela when in Madrid, using the Royal Palace to host functions of state. The palace is open to visitors except when it is closed in order to host an official state function. Because of its size, the tour route changes every few months, so you are unlikely to visit the same rooms on a return visit.

The Royal Palace of Madrid

Inside the Royal Palace

Don't forget to look up!

The Changing of the Guard

- Location: Centro, 28071 Madrid

- Hours: 10 am to 6 pm (Mon. to Sat.); 10 am to 3 pm (Sundays)

- Cost: General admission: 14 euros; Reduced admission: 7 euros (children 5-16, senior citizens and students up to age 25 with a valid student ID card)

- Rating: 5 of 5 stars

El Parque de Buen Retiro: The Retiro was set aside as a Royal Retreat in 1505. In fact, it became the center of Habsburg court life during the Spanish Golden Age (1492-1659). Following the "Glorious Revolution" of 1868, the unpopular Queen Isabel II was deposed and a new government was set up. Although the new government only lasted six years, one of the lasting effects of the Revolution was making the queen's gardens into a public park - El Retiro. Located at the edge of the city centre, the park covers 1.4 square kilometers (350 acres), including a wide variety of gardens, monuments, galleries and an artificial lake. One of the most popular activities at the park is taking a rowboat out on the lake by the monument to Alfonso XII. There are also many tours available, including by Segway and horse-drawn carriage. In 2021, the Retiro and nearby Paseo del Prado were named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. 

Rose Garden in El Retiro

El Palacio de Cristal

Rowboats on the Estanque

- Location: Retiro, 28009 Madrid

- Hours: 6 am to midnight (April - September); 6 am to 10 pm (October - March)

- Cost: free; Rowboats: 6 euros (weekdays), 8 euros (weekends and holidays)

- Rating: 5 of 5 stars

The Museo del Prado: The Prado is the crowning jewel of Spain's Golden Triangle of Art, together with the Reina Sofia Museum and the Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum. The Prado displays collections of classical European art from the 12th Century to the early 20th Century. The museum was founded in 1819 and contains the single best collection of Spanish art in the world. Among the museum's extensive collection of paintings and sculptures are many fabulous works of art by renowned artists such as Francisco Goya, El Greco, Hieronymus Bosch, Peter Paul Rubens, Titian, and Diego Velazquez, as well as a large collection of Italian masters, among others. The museum's collection includes 8,200 drawings, 7,600 paintings, 4,800 prints, 1,000 sculptures and various other works as well as historical documents. Of those works, about 1,300 are on display at any given time, while others are on loan to other museums or in storage. The prize of the collection is probably Las Meninas by Diego Velazquez, but there are plenty of other masterpieces to choose from.

El Prado

- Location: Retiro, 28014 Madrid

- Hours: 10 am to 8 pm (Mon. to Sat.); 10 am to 7 pm (Sundays)

- Cost: General Admission: 15 euros; reduced admission: 7.50 euros; children 0-18: free 

- Rating: 5 of 5 stars

Things You Should Know: 

- The best way to travel around Madrid is by subway. The subway system is fairly easy to navigate once you learn how to read it (no need to know Spanish), and will take you practically anywhere you want to go. Travelling around the city in car would be a nightmare since there aren't any parking lots above ground. If you have a rental car, it is better to leave it parked in the hotel parking lot. Just make sure that you know exactly where you are supposed to park it because you will get heavily fined. I had to pay a 90 euro fine because I was one space off where I was supposed to be.

-Every Sunday from late May through early October, the Retiro hosts a free midday concert by the Symphonic Band of Madrid at the bandstand located near Calle de Alcala. Sunday is usually the most crowded day throughout the year, with a multitude of street performers practicing their craft.

- If you shop around, there are special offers available that allow you to visit 2 or more venues at reduced rates.

Nearby: Segovia - My favorite Spanish city (91.5 km NW of Madrid); Toledo - the sword-making capital of Spain (72.5 km south of Madrid); Castillo de Manzanares - a beautiful medieval castle (52.7 km north of Madrid), Alcala de Henares - birthplace of Miguel de Cervantes (40.4 km east of Madrid), Aranjuez - site of another beautiful Royal Palace (53.4 km south of Madrid)

Miguel de Cervantes' Home in Alcala de Henares

Spotlight: Granada, Spain

 Spotlight: Granada is located in Andalusia at the confluence of four rivers (the Darro, Genil, Monachil & Beiro) at the foot of the Sierra Nevada mountains, 738 meters above sea level. The city was settled by Iberians, Romans and Visigoths prior to the arrival of the Moors. At the beginning of the 11th century, the area of Granada became heavily populated by the Zirids - a Sanhaja Berber group from north Africa. Under Nasrid rule, Granada became one of the major cities of al-Andalus, where Muslims, Jews and Christians co-existed peacefully for many years. As the Muslim empire was gradually taken over by the Christian kingdoms, many displaced Muslims sought refuge at Granada, creating a densely populated Muslim state that sometimes warred with its Christian neighbors, and at times allied with them. When Ibn al-Ahmar became the ruler of Granada, he moved his royal palace to the Sabika Hill and in 1238 AD began construction of La Alhambra - a self-contained palace city with its own mosque, fortress and residential quarters for servants. The Alhambra complex continued to expand through the years as new palaces were built to replace older ones. During the last war between the Muslims and Christians on the Iberian Peninsula, the fortress of La Alhambra in Granada became the last bastion of Muslim rule in western Europe. On January 2, 1492, Emir Muhammad XII officially surrendered the city to the Catholic Monarchs - Fernando II of Aragon and Isabel I of Castilla. Once the surrender was complete, the Monarchs issued the Alhambra Decree on March 31, 1492. This decree was an attempt to unite all their territories under one flag and one religion, creating the modern country of Spain. It demanded that all Jews and Muslims living within Spanish borders had to convert to Christianity or pack up and leave. Most of the rich families left, many seeking refuge in north Africa or other sympathetic countries. Those too poor to leave were obliged to "convert," though many continued to practice their religion in secret. This eventually led to the Spanish Inquisition, employed to root out the false converts throughout the nation. Meanwhile, Fernando and Isabel set up residence in the city. After they died, they were buried in the Royal Chapel of Granada, where their tombs remain to this day.

Granada

Activities:

The Alhambra: Abdallah Ibn al-Ahmar established the Nasrid Dynasty at the Emirate of Granada - the longest-lasting Muslim dynasty in the Iberian Peninsula. In 1238, following the fall of Cordoba to Christian forces, he decided to strengthen the defenses of Granada by building a fortified palace on Sabika Hill. Over the next 250 years, the Alhambra was transformed into a palatine city, complete with aqueducts that supplied the mountain top with an adequate supply of fresh water. Over the centuries, the caliphs continually added to the complex, building new palaces and converting the older ones into ornate governmental buildings or housing for other important individuals.

The Alhambra on Sabika Hill

The Fortress

The gardens and fountains

     As the other Islamic strongholds of Andalucía fell to the Christian monarchs, Granada became the last stronghold of the Islamic forces in Europe. In December of 1491, the Catholic monarchs, Fernando and Isabel, marched into Granada accompanied by an army of overwhelming numbers. Rather than fight a prolonged battle, Muhammad XII, the Caliph of Granada, signed the Treaty of Granada, allowing the Alhambra to be spared a brutal attack. Upon the exodus of the Islamic forces, Fernando and Isabel took possession of the citadel.

Palace of Carlos V

Sculptured wall

Mudejar architecture

     The Alhambra was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984. Although some of the ancient structures have long since been replaced, the complex currently contains: the Alcazaba (fortress), a fortified wall with 13 defensive towers, the Palace of Carlos V, Comares Palace, the Palace of the Lions, Partal Palace, the Palace of Abencerrajes, the Palace of the Convent of San Francisco, Generalife Palace, and numerous plazas, gates, towers and gardens. The geometrically themed artwork on the walls, which was carved or painted by hand, is absolutely exquisite.

Comares Palace

Palace of the Lions

Patio of the Lions

- Location: C. Real de la Alhambra, s/n, Centro, 18009 Granada

- Hours: 8:30 am to 8 pm (Apr. 1 - Oct. 14); 8:30 am to 6 pm (Oct. 15 - Mar. 31); However, night tours are available.

- Cost: $15.38; however, most visitors prefer to take a 3-4 hour guided tour which adds about $30/ticket

- Rating: 5 of 5 stars

Royal Chapel: In 1504, the Catholic Monarchs, Fernando II of Aragon and Isabel I of Castilla, made a royal decree, declaring that they were to be buried in Granada. The Royal Chapel was built next to the Cathedral where the Great Mosque of Granada once stood. Enrique Egas was chosen as the architect, and the chapel was built between 1506 to 1521, using the Isabelline Gothic style. The chapel houses the tombs of Fernando, Isabel, their daughter Juana "La Loca" and her husband Felipe "El Hermoso." In addition to the tombs, the Sacristy - Museum is home to a treasury of artwork and religious relics, as well as many personal items belonging to the Royals.

Granada Cathedral and Royal Palace

Tomb of Fernando II and Isabel I

- Location: Calle Oficios, s/n, 18001 Granada

- Hours: 10 am to 6:30 pm (Mon. - Sat.); 11 am to 6:30 pm (Sunday)

- Cost: General - 5 euros; seniors & students - 2.5 euros; children under 10 - free

- Rating: 4 of 5 stars

Sacromonte: The Sacromonte is a neighborhood on the eastern side of Granada - one of 6 urban neighborhoods that make up the urban district of Albayzin. The Sacromonte is located on the hillside of the valley of Vaparaiso (opposite of the Alhambra) along the banks of the Darro River. Following the Christian conquest of Granada, this neighborhood was settled by the Romani - a large ethnic group in Spain, often referred to as "gitanos" (gypsies). The name Sacromonte (Sacred mountain) comes from an event in the 1590's, when the "Lead Books of Sacromonte" were discovered. The Lead Books, written with undecipherable Latin and Arabic characters, were believed to be a lost book of scripture, but were later declared a forgery. Nevertheless, they can still be viewed in the Abbey of Sacromonte.

El Sacromonte

     Although the Sacromonte is only one of many Romani neighborhoods in Andalusia, it is one of the most unique. The neighborhood is home to many enclosed cave dwellings, installed within whitewashed caves. Since the caves were outside the city walls, they also fell outside the city's administrative and ecclesiastical control, and thus became an asylum for Muslims and Jews trying to escape the Spanish Inquisition. The size of the dwellings varied immensely from "house" to "house" since the terrain and altitude affected how deep each cave could be dug, so the number and size of the rooms were indeterminable from the outside.

Typical Cave-House

     The Cave-House Museum of Sacromonte encompasses 4,800 square meters and has a collection of 11 separate cave-house dwellings, which recreate the cave dwellings as they would have been maintained by their original inhabitants. Inside the cave-houses, visitors can peruse the various dwellings which portray typical kitchens, bedrooms, living areas, stables and workshops that highlight traditional trades and crafts of the era: basketry, ceramics, blacksmiths, weavers, etc. There is also a cave dedicated to Flamenco - the popular Andalusian dance developed and performed by the Romani. 

Living area

Bed chamber

Kitchen

Basket weaver workshop

- Location: Barranco de los Negros, s/n (acceder por, C. Verea de Enmedio, 18010 Granada

- Hours: 10 am to 6 pm (Oct. 15-Mar. 14); 10 am to 8 pm (Mar. 15-Oct. 14)

- Cost: General - 5 euros

- Rating: 4 of 5 stars

Things you should know: 

- The Alhambra often sells out weeks ahead of time, so you will probably want to buy your tickets ahead of time.

- The best place to watch Flamenco dancing is Andalusia, since that is where this art form was born.

Nearby: Parque Nacional de Sierra Nevada - 38 km east of Granada; Malaga - a large city located on the Mediterranean Sea (126 km SW of Granada); Cordoba - the Islamic capital of Spain during the height of Al-Andalus (161 km NW of Granada); Antequera - a typical Andalusian city (101 km west of Granada).

Spotlight: Córdoba, Spain

Spotlight: Cordoba was conquered by Rome in 206 BC, and many remnants of Roman life remain in evidence today. After the fall of Rome, the Visigoths took over until the 8th century AD, when the Muslims invaded the peninsula and made Cordoba the capital of the Umayyad Dynasty. Under Muslim rule, Cordoba thrived. It not only became the second largest city in Europe, it was also the best educated. Cordoba was home to more than 80 libraries and institutions of learning, creating a center of learning that far exceeded the rest of Europe in medicine, astronomy, mathematics and botany. Cordoba continued to thrive until 1009 AD, when internal strife within Al-Andalus broke into a long period of civil war between competing caliphs. Eventually, the Caliphate was replaced by an Oligarchic Republic. In 1236, the city fell to the Christian forces under Fernando III of Castilla, adding the prize city of Andalusia to the growing kingdom of Castilla-Leon. The Great Mosque of Cordoba was so grand that the conquering Christians broke with tradition. Rather than tear it down, as was the common practice of conquered mosques, the Christians converted it into a cathedral, while retaining much of its Muslim décor. The result is the Mezquita-Catedral - the most unique cathedral in all of Spain.

Activities:

La Mezquita-Catedral: The Mosque-Cathedral of Cordoba, AKA the Cathedral of our Lady of the Assumption, is supposed to be built on the site of an old Visigoth church known as the Basilica of Vincent of Saragossa (mid-sixth century). The Great Mosque was built in 785 AD by Abd al-Rahman, the founder of the Emirate of Cordoba. The Minaret was added in 958. When Christian forces under the command of the Crown of Castile captured the city in 1236, they decided to leave the magnificent structure intact, and convert it into a cathedral. However, it wasn't until the 16th century that a Renaissance style nave and transept, called Villaviciosa Chapel, were inserted into the center of the massive structure.

La Mezquita-Catedral (as seen from the bell tower)

The excavated Basilica in the
basement of the Great Mosque

        To enter the complex, visitors pass through the "Door of Forgiveness" (next to the Minaret). From there, you pass through the Orange Tree Courtyard to enter the Mosque Cathedral. The cathedral, which still holds mass daily, is a study in contrasts. The center section has been decorated in the Catholic style, with paintings and statues of saints, angels, cherubs and of course a crucifix of Jesus. Meanwhile, the structure surrounding the central cathedral retains the décor of an Islamic mosque, decorated with geometric patterns including the iconic candy cane style arches. The orange trees were planted by Bishop Francisco Reinoso in rows as a continuation of the columns in the prayer hall. The Minaret was converted into a bell tower, which has been restored at various times due to storms and earthquakes. From the Minaret, you can get a great view of the cathedral from above as well as the surrounding city. Today, the whole complex has been designated an World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

The iconic "candy cane" arches

The cathedral

The Bell Tower Minaret

- Location: C. Cardenal Herrero, º 1, Centro, 14003 Córdoba

- Hours: 10 am to 7 pm (Mon. - Sat.; March to October); 10 am to 6 pm (Mon. - Sat.; November to February); 8:30 am to 11:30 am & 3 pm to 6 pm (Sundays)

- Cost: 13 euros; 10 euros for students (15-26) and senior citizens (65+);7 euros for children ages 10-14; The Bell Tower costs an additional 3 euros

- Rating: 5 of 5 stars

Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos: This fortress was built in 1328, on orders of Alfonso XI of Castilla, to replace the Islamic-era Umayyad Alcazar. Although the fortress only incorporates a small portion of the previous alcazar, Alfonso decided to use the same Mudejar style, giving the Alcazar its Islamic appearance. It later served as one of the primary residences of Fernando II of Aragon and Isabel, the so-called Catholic Monarchs, for whom the fortress is named. The Monarchs used the Alcazar as one of the first permanent tribunals during the Spanish Inquisition. It also served as their home base of operations for their final thrust into Granada in their effort to defeat the Muslim forces there. In 1486 or 1487, the Alcazar hosted the first meeting between Christopher Columbus and the monarchs regarding his plan to establish a trade route with India by sailing west. With the ongoing war between the Christians and the Muslims, they initially turned him down, but he returned following the fall of Granada, initiating the voyage that would change the course of history. One of the best things about the Alcazar are the gardens, which many beautiful plants, fountains and statues. The fortress is part of the Historic Centre of Cordoba, which was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1994.

The Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos

Exploring the walls

Fountains in the courtyard

The gardens

Statue commemorating the meeting
between Columbus and the Catholic Monarchs

- Location: C. Caballerizas Reales, s/n, Centro, 14004 Córdoba

- Hours: June 16 - Sept. 15: 8:30 am to 3:00 pm (Tues. - Sat.); Sept. 16 - June 15: 8:30 am to 8 pm (Tues. - Sat.); 8:30 am to 2:30 pm (Sun. & bank holidays); closed Mondays

- Cost: 5 euros; 2.5 euros for students and senior citizens (65+);children ages 0-13 are free

- Rating: 4.5 of 5 stars

The Roman Bridge: The Roman bridge that spans the Guadalquivir River was originally built in the first century BC as part of the Via Augusta that connected Rome with Cadiz. Although it has been reconstructed several times, it retains the same style as the original bridge. Most of the current structure dates back to the Arab reconstruction in the 8th century. However, the 14th and 15th arches remain from the original construction. In the center of the bridge is a 16th century shrine and statue of Saint Rafael, created by Bernabe Gomez del Rio. On the southern end of the bridge stand the Calahorra Tower, erected in 1333 to protect access to the bridge. On the northern end is the Puerta del Puente (Door of the Bridge), a Renaissance Gate built in the 16th century to commemorate the visit of King Felipe II. It was constructed on the site where the original Roman gates stood at the entrance to the city. The bridge, tower and Puerta are all part of the Historic Centre of Cordoba - a World Heritage Site. The bridge was the only one that served the city for two millennia, until the San Rafael Bridge was built in the mid-20th Century. Since 2004, the bridge has been converted into a pedestrian bridge.

The Roman bridge

La Puerta del Puente

Walking toward the Calahorra Tower

- Location: Av. del Alcázar, s/n, Sur, 14009 Córdoba

- Hours: open all day every day

- Cost: free

- Rating: 3.5 of 5 stars

Medina Azahara: The Caliphate city of Medina Azahara is an archeological site also known as Madinat al-Zahra. The archeological dig is uncovering the original capital city of the Caliphate of Cordoba. Medina Azahara, "The Shining City," lasted for less than a century before being destroyed in a civil war that occurred in 1009-1010 AD. The remains of the city, which are located on the western outskirts of Cordoba, were discovered in the early 20th century. Archeologists are discovering a treasure trove of information regarding life in the Western Islamic Civilization of Al-Andalus at its peak since it has remained underground and untouched over the past millennium. Thus far, only about 10% of the city has been excavated in an organized, methodical way. Visitors can view the plethora of artifacts that have already been uncovered and read about how life was in the Caliphate 1,000 years ago.

Madinat al-Zahra

archeological dig

Remnants of Medina Azahara

- Location: Ctra. Palma del Río, km 5, 5, 14005 Córdoba

- Hours: 9 am to 6:30 pm (Tues. - Sat.; closing times vary depending on the season); 9 am to 3:30 pm (Sundays and bank holidays); closed on Mondays

- Cost: 1.5 euros; guided tours - 18 euros

- Rating: 4 of 5 stars

Things You Should Know:

- In the middle of Cordoba, you can see the remains of an old Roman Temple.

Roman Temple

- Mondays are often a bad day for tourists in Spain. Many tourist sites are closed. When planning a visit to Spain, it is a good idea to plan your Mondays first based on what is going to be open.

Nearby: El Caminito del Rey - a fabulous hike (153 km south of Cordoba); Antequera - a typical Andalusian city 120 km south of Cordoba); Sevilla - Spain's most important city during its colonial days (145 km SW of Cordoba); Parque Natural Sierra de Hornachuelos - Natural Mountain Park (65 km west of Cordoba); Granada - home to La Alhambra (173 km SE of Cordoba).

Spotlight: Malaga, Spain

 Spotlight: Malaga is the second largest city in Andalusia. Situated on the banks of the Mediterranean Sea, in what is known as the Costa del Sol ("The Coast of the Sun"), it is a hot tourist destination for Spaniards as well as foreigners. Malaga was founded in 770 BC by the Phoenicians from Tyre who were trying to establish trading outposts across the Mediterranean. Rome took control of the city in 218 BC following the fall of Carthage in the Punic Wars. After the fall of Rome, it was controlled by the Visigoths until the Moors invaded the peninsula from Africa in the 8th century. In 1487, Castile took control of the city in the midst of the Granada War. Today, Malaga is the 6th largest city in Spain.

Malaga

Activities:

 Beach: Due to its prime location on the Costa del Sol, Malaga is a popular vacation destination for beach-goers. Since Malaga has hot summers and mild winters, with about 300 days of sun every year, you can see visitors on the beach most of the year. However, only the most intrepid beach-goers will go in the water in the off-season since it doesn't warm up until mid-summer. The month of July is the most crowded time to visit since most Spaniards use that month to vacation on the coast. In fact, many wealthy Spaniards own a second piso (apartment) in a coastal city where they vacation for several weeks every year. One of the most popular beaches is Playa La Malagueta, which is clean and free.

Beach bums

Mediterranean Sea

- Location: Paseo Marítimo Ciudad de Melilla, s/n, La Malagueta

- Cost: Free

- Rating: 4 of 5 stars

Alcazaba and Castillo de Gibralfaro: The Alcazaba was constructed during the Islamic Era under the rule of the Al-Andalus. The current fortress was built in the 11th century along a ridge of a large hill that looks out over the city and the Mediterranean Sea. The ridge was previously occupied by the Phoenicians circa 600 BC. Excavations of the hill have also uncovered a Roman Era theater that was built into the western slope of the hill in the first century AD. The fortress comprises two walled enclosures (one within the other). The inner enclosure encompasses the hills summit and encloses the palaces within its gates. The whole structure can be accessed by climbing a series of stairs and ramps that climb the hill, passing through various gates with beautiful views of the city.

The Alcazaba

The Castle of Gibralfaro was built in 929 AD by Abd-al-Rahman III, who was the Caliph of Cordoba. The castle is on the site of an ancient Phoenician lighthouse (from which it got its name "Rock of the Lighthouse"). It is connected to the Alcazaba by a double wall. During the Christian conquest of the city, the Arab defenders were well-defended inside of the castle. This was one of the first conflicts in which both sides used gunpowder. The defenders finally surrendered due to extreme hunger after a 3-month siege by the Catholic Monarchs. 

El Castillo

- Location: C/ Alcazabilla, 2, Distrito Centro, 29012 Málaga

- Hours: Summer: 9 am to 8 pm; Winter: 9 am to 6 pm

- Cost: 5.50 euros (for both monuments)

- Rating: 4.5 of 5 stars

Museo Picasso Malaga: Pablo Picasso, the famous Spanish artist who painted the most famous painting of the 20th century, Guernica, was born in Malaga in 1881. The Picasso Museum of Malaga was opened in 2003, and features hundreds of famous paintings of the artist. The collection is housed in the Palacio de Buenavista (declared a National Monument), which was built in the first half of the 16th century over the remains of a Nasrid Palace. Although the museum isn't home to Guernica (the artist's political protest against the bombing of the Basque town of that name), it features many other famous pieces that were donated by family and friends of the famous artist, and shows the metamorphosis of his style from amateur artist to the inventor of Cubism to his later re-workings of the Old Masters. Some of the works displayed here include: Three Graces (1923), Woman with Raised Arms (1936), Head of a Bull (1942), Still Life with Rooster and Knife (1947), Jacqueline Seated (1954), Bust of a Faun (1957), and Man, Woman and Child (1972).

Museo Picasso Malaga

- Location: Palacio de Buenavista, C. San Agustín, 8, Distrito Centro, 29015 Málaga

- Hours: 10 am to 7 pm

- Cost: 9.50 euros; 7.50 euros (with European Youth Card); teachers are free (with proof of employment)

- Rating: 3.5 of 5 stars

Things You Should Know:

- Despite being on the "Coast of the Sun" the water in the Mediterranean was still really cold in early June.

- Guernica, the most famous of Picasso's paintings can be seen as the Museo Reina Sofia in Madrid

Nearby: El Caminito del Rey - a fabulous hike (60 km NW of Malaga); Antequera - a typical Andalusian city (52 km north of Malaga); Gibraltar - English territory that controls access to the Mediterranean (134 km SW of Malaga); Cordoba - the Islamic capital of Spain during the height of Al-Andalus (158 km north of Malaga 49 min. by train); Granada - home to La Alhambra (126 km NE of Malaga).